Well, I wanted to get out of the cities and that was definitely what I got in Mulu.  A short half hour flight over the jungle from Miri brought me to Gulung Mulu National Park one of the places on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.  The flight, though small, was surprisingly nice.  The plane touched down smoothly on a single strip surrounded by jungle covered hills prompting the guy behind me to start humming the Jurassic Park theme song.  I couldn't have agreed more.

Flight over the jungle

There are limited places to stay in the park, either very expensive or very full, so I figured I would show up and hope for the best.  For 15 Ringgit a night (about $5) I was provided with a homestay right along the river and that was just a three minute walk to the park entrance.  My accommodations were basic to say the least and while I hadn't expected much, even I was a bit surprised to find my bathing facilities consisted of a barrel of water and an oversized ladle.  I have never in my life regretted not shaving my legs before arriving at a place so much.

Oh boy...

But a lovely view of the river from my doorway

But it really didn't matter.  Borneo is incredibly hot and just sitting or walking about leisurely is enough to get completely drenched in sweat.  After several weeks of tropical climates I'm used to it though.  Every once in awhile I remember I'll be arriving back in the US in November and a small tear comes to my eye, but perhaps it's just sweat.  In addition to the heat, everyone smells.  Walking through caves behind a stanky middle-aged European is a good way to feel better about how long it's been since you've had a proper shower or proper laundering of clothes.

As terrible as Mulu is sounding, it was impossible to notice the threadbare comforts when surrounded by some of the world's best caves.  Though unlike Niah Caves in Miri, Mulu's caves are strictly tour guided as are many of the trails.  The first day I arrived too late to catch any of the tours so I walked to Deer Cave to watch the bat exodus.  Around 6:30 pm approximately 2 million bats left the cave in a long black flickering ribbon.  It was an amazing site to see and by that time the temperature had cooled to a comfortable degree.  Unfortunately, the drop in temperature also came with torrential downpour and I was stuck walking the 2.8 km back to my homestay in a complete downpour.

About 3 million bats reside in Deer Cave
and they exit the cave in massive groups for feeding

The next day I awoke to the sound of chickens being slaughtered and promptly put on my Ipod for a few more blissful hours of sleep.  Later I did a canopy walk which took me 55 m about the jungle floor.  The view was amazing, although you seldom see much wildlife outside of insects, lizards, and pygmy squirrels around the park.  After the canopy walk, I took tours of Deer and Lang Cave.  Deer cave has the largest cavern in the world, large enough to fit St. Peter's Basilica, though I found the formations in Lang Cave more beautiful.  That night I sampled home brewed rice wine with a few friends I had met at one of the few canteens outside the park.  Like everywhere I've been, it's impossible not to meet people.  

Deer Cave

Formations at Lang Cave

I woke early the following morning to tour Clearwater and Wind Caves which were by far my favorite part of the park.  At the end of the tour we were free to swim in Clearwater River.  Since the water flowed directly from the cave it was quite cold and felt wonderful in the Borneo heat.  On the way back to my homestay I stopped in a Penan village where local merchants were selling hand woven baskets, carved hornbills, beaded purses, and blow dart guns.  The last being an obvious gift choice for the brothers.  The path back also took me by the airport where several groundskeepers were meticulously weed wacking the entire runway. I have yet to see an actual lawn mower on this trip.   

Clearwater River:  Such a wonderful reprise from the Borneo heat

While travelling even the simplest of tasks can turn into adventures in and of themselves.  This became the case as I tried to exit Mulu.  Unlike the US, Southeast Asia has several budget airlines that make it pretty easy and affordable to book last minute and I've been taking advantage of this for much of my journey.  Not having a set plan, I like to keep my destinations open-ended in case I end up unexpectedly loving a place.  Unfortunately, Mulu was a place that needed a bit more planning.  After asking about internet and receiving only blank stares and head shakes I decided to walk the 1 km to the airport and just book directly there.  Except they didn't accept credit card.  Or exchange currency.  And I didn't have enough Ringgit.

Okay, back to the park for a credit card advance.  While I had spoken to several people who had done this earlier in their stay, the front desk informed me that they were unable to do so at the moment because they were low on cash.  This sent me on a 3 km walk in the opposite direction of the airport to Mulu Resort, the overly expensive yet basic accommodation option that did not look too kindly on my parched and sweaty body stumbling into reception inquiring about internet.  Despite a few eye rolls I managed to talk my way onto one of their computers and get my flight booked.  I even got a ride back to my homestay from one of the owners who was zipping by on a motorbike.

3 km walk on black top to get to some internet

After checking into my flight I was given simple instructions.  Listen for the plane.  When you hear it land, move to the gate.  When no more people are walking off, get on the plane.  Some things in Mulu can be surprisingly simple.