Well, I wanted to get out of the cities and that was definitely what I got in Mulu.  A short half hour flight over the jungle from Miri brought me to Gulung Mulu National Park one of the places on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.  The flight, though small, was surprisingly nice.  The plane touched down smoothly on a single strip surrounded by jungle covered hills prompting the guy behind me to start humming the Jurassic Park theme song.  I couldn't have agreed more.

Flight over the jungle

There are limited places to stay in the park, either very expensive or very full, so I figured I would show up and hope for the best.  For 15 Ringgit a night (about $5) I was provided with a homestay right along the river and that was just a three minute walk to the park entrance.  My accommodations were basic to say the least and while I hadn't expected much, even I was a bit surprised to find my bathing facilities consisted of a barrel of water and an oversized ladle.  I have never in my life regretted not shaving my legs before arriving at a place so much.

Oh boy...

But a lovely view of the river from my doorway

But it really didn't matter.  Borneo is incredibly hot and just sitting or walking about leisurely is enough to get completely drenched in sweat.  After several weeks of tropical climates I'm used to it though.  Every once in awhile I remember I'll be arriving back in the US in November and a small tear comes to my eye, but perhaps it's just sweat.  In addition to the heat, everyone smells.  Walking through caves behind a stanky middle-aged European is a good way to feel better about how long it's been since you've had a proper shower or proper laundering of clothes.

As terrible as Mulu is sounding, it was impossible to notice the threadbare comforts when surrounded by some of the world's best caves.  Though unlike Niah Caves in Miri, Mulu's caves are strictly tour guided as are many of the trails.  The first day I arrived too late to catch any of the tours so I walked to Deer Cave to watch the bat exodus.  Around 6:30 pm approximately 2 million bats left the cave in a long black flickering ribbon.  It was an amazing site to see and by that time the temperature had cooled to a comfortable degree.  Unfortunately, the drop in temperature also came with torrential downpour and I was stuck walking the 2.8 km back to my homestay in a complete downpour.

About 3 million bats reside in Deer Cave
and they exit the cave in massive groups for feeding

The next day I awoke to the sound of chickens being slaughtered and promptly put on my Ipod for a few more blissful hours of sleep.  Later I did a canopy walk which took me 55 m about the jungle floor.  The view was amazing, although you seldom see much wildlife outside of insects, lizards, and pygmy squirrels around the park.  After the canopy walk, I took tours of Deer and Lang Cave.  Deer cave has the largest cavern in the world, large enough to fit St. Peter's Basilica, though I found the formations in Lang Cave more beautiful.  That night I sampled home brewed rice wine with a few friends I had met at one of the few canteens outside the park.  Like everywhere I've been, it's impossible not to meet people.  

Deer Cave

Formations at Lang Cave

I woke early the following morning to tour Clearwater and Wind Caves which were by far my favorite part of the park.  At the end of the tour we were free to swim in Clearwater River.  Since the water flowed directly from the cave it was quite cold and felt wonderful in the Borneo heat.  On the way back to my homestay I stopped in a Penan village where local merchants were selling hand woven baskets, carved hornbills, beaded purses, and blow dart guns.  The last being an obvious gift choice for the brothers.  The path back also took me by the airport where several groundskeepers were meticulously weed wacking the entire runway. I have yet to see an actual lawn mower on this trip.   

Clearwater River:  Such a wonderful reprise from the Borneo heat

While travelling even the simplest of tasks can turn into adventures in and of themselves.  This became the case as I tried to exit Mulu.  Unlike the US, Southeast Asia has several budget airlines that make it pretty easy and affordable to book last minute and I've been taking advantage of this for much of my journey.  Not having a set plan, I like to keep my destinations open-ended in case I end up unexpectedly loving a place.  Unfortunately, Mulu was a place that needed a bit more planning.  After asking about internet and receiving only blank stares and head shakes I decided to walk the 1 km to the airport and just book directly there.  Except they didn't accept credit card.  Or exchange currency.  And I didn't have enough Ringgit.

Okay, back to the park for a credit card advance.  While I had spoken to several people who had done this earlier in their stay, the front desk informed me that they were unable to do so at the moment because they were low on cash.  This sent me on a 3 km walk in the opposite direction of the airport to Mulu Resort, the overly expensive yet basic accommodation option that did not look too kindly on my parched and sweaty body stumbling into reception inquiring about internet.  Despite a few eye rolls I managed to talk my way onto one of their computers and get my flight booked.  I even got a ride back to my homestay from one of the owners who was zipping by on a motorbike.

3 km walk on black top to get to some internet

After checking into my flight I was given simple instructions.  Listen for the plane.  When you hear it land, move to the gate.  When no more people are walking off, get on the plane.  Some things in Mulu can be surprisingly simple.

I went to Sukau Greenview Bed and Breakfast afternoon of the 13th after a few hour's drive from my hostel in the center of Sandakan, Malaysia.  I booked a three day two night package that included several river cruises, a rainforest trek, and a nighttime nature walk.  Immediately after check-in we were taken out for a sunset river cruise along the rainforest lined Kinabatangan River.  It was amazing.  The boats were small and uncrowded giving a clear view of hornbills, macaques, proboscis monkeys, alligators, and other wildlife roaming in the jungle.

River Cruising

Saw tons of these guys up close and personal

While I had hoped to see orangutans in their natural habitat, I have yet to see any outside the Sepilok Conservation Center.  However, while on my first river cruise, I did see a small herd of pygmy elephants which is an even rarer sighting.  Sughee, the guide on my boat, said the pygmy elephants were only seen four or five times a year and he hadn't seen any in about two months.  Considering he does multiple cruises every day, I was very fortunate to see them at all, let alone on my first cruise.  There were about eight of them we followed along the bank as they pulled down vines and fed on the foliage.  I was even more fortunate to see an additional two right along the riverbank the next day.

The elusive Pygmy Elephants

My stay at Sukau was so tranquil and so different from what I have seen so far in Asia, even in the rest of Borneo.  Much of the rainforest has been cut down and replaced with palm tree plantations and palm oil factories which is depressing to see.  When I first arrived in Borneo, I wondered if it was even worth the airfare I had paid to get here.  Since leaving Sandakan (can you tell I wasn't fond of the city?) I have loved every bit of Borneo.

Early morning on the river.
Borneo:  A place beautiful enough to wake me before sunrise

When I left Sukau I was dropped off at Mile 32 where there was little more than a few small market tents along a dusty road.  Another what now moment.  But I was told buses to Kota Kinabalu passed regularly and sure enough one did about 15 minutes later.  Relief.  The bus ride from Sukau to Kota Kinabalu was gorgeous and while most of my trip thus far has had it's fair share of other westerners, I was the only non-Malay on the bus.  The route wound through the mountains on jungle lined roads passing small villages and lone stilted homes.

Homes in rural Borneo

I did some more diving in Kota Kinabalu, which was even better than Koh Tao, but the best part of the city was the food.  I ate at fish markets every night where I'd go and pick a sampling of fresh seafood to be grilled to my liking and served with some extremely spicy and delicious chili sauce.  While there were eating utensils on the table, most people just used their right hand and I followed suit.  Tearing fish off the bone and shovelling rice into my mouth with my hand was definitely the way to go.

From Kota Kinabalu I went to Miri to visit the Niah Caves.  The caves are located in Niah National Park and getting there takes about a 2 km walk through the jungle and what seemed like a million haphazardly crafted wooden steps.  But it was worth it.  Unlike the caves in Gunung Mulu (where I'm heading next) you don't need a guide to walk through the caves.  While there are paths, they are sometimes little more than carved lines in the ground.  There was also no light in the underground tunnels except for my flashlight and when you're the only person in an entire cave it gets a bit spooky.

Pictures in caves just can't do them justice

I also had my first shopping breakdown in Miri when I went to a handicraft center and saw some irresistible beaded purses and clutches.  After stocking up on gifts for myself and friends, I shipped my first package home.  For $18 US my beautiful things will be on a slow boat from Borneo for about three months and will probably arrive stateside around the same time I do.

I'm heading to Gunung Mulu National Park now.  It's a short half hour flight over the jungle and boasts some of the best caves in the world.  

I've spent the past two weeks on the islands of Koh Phangan and Koh Tao in Thailand.  I traveled first to Koh Phangan to take part in the Full Moon Party, a massive gathering on the beach that lasts past sunrise the next day.  It's a strange event with buckets consisting of concentrated red bull (Pretty sure it wouldn't be FDA approved), soda, and an alcohol of your choice sold at every corner and all along the beach.  Neon clothes and body paint are essentially uniform and activities involving fire provide recreation for inoxicated partiers.  I'm proud to say that I did not partake in any flaming jumproping, limbo, or attempted fire dancing while consuming buckets.  A wise choice, as most people were walking around with bandaged appendages by the time Full Moon finished.  Also, Full Moon isn't exactly a stand alone event.  There are parties every night leading up to it that are similar affairs on a slightly smaller scale.  So by the time the Full Moon was over I was more than ready to get out of Koh Phangan.

Neons, body paint, buckets, and friends.

From Koh Phangan I headed to Koh Tao, a common post-Full Moon stop for many backpackers.  While the Island is not nearly as filthy as Koh Phangan, it has still seen the effects of a massive boom of western travelers thanks in part to the Full Moon Party.  A few of the people I was travelling with had been there only a few years ago and mentioned how much the Island has changed which is sad to hear.

Flaming jump rope at a Koh Tao bar.  Completely normal for Thailand.

I went diving for the first time in Koh Tao and after getting over the initial shock of breathing underwater, it was an amazing experience.  The coral and aquatic life was not as vibrant or varied as what I saw while snorkeling in the Perhentians, but was still very beautiful and having an airtank made it possible to get a closer.  While many people take advantage of Koh Tao's low diving prices to get certified, a three day course, I did only a single day discovery dive.  I wasn't sure how much I'd use an open water certification after I leave Thailand and also enjoyed snorkeling as much as I did diving, which is way easier and cheaper.

Koh Tao early morning before the beach got crowded.

Another first in Koh Tao was Queen's Ladyboy Cabaret.  Ladyboys are a sort of third gender in Thailand and cabaret shows are very common.  While I've seen many ladyboys walking around Southeast Asia, this is the first performance I've witnessed apart from a few fire dancers on the Perhentian Islands.

Ladyboy Whitney Houston with backup dancers.  Too soon?

While my weeks on the islands have been incredibly fun, I find myself getting a bit lazy.  Okay, maybe a lot lazy.  You realize when you decide you're too tired to move from the beach to get a massage (less than 10$ for an hour massage is difficult to resist) it's probably time to get away from the beach and get some new experiences.  After an overnight boat ride and two short flights I arrived in Sandakan, part of Malaysian Borneo.  I've already done some rainforest trekking and seen orangutans.  Today I leave for a three day river boat cruise that came highly recommended from two girls at my hostel.  After that, I'm thinking I'll head to Kota Kinabalu to see if I can book a climb up Mt. Kinabalu.  Borneo has already been a wonderful change of pace and I have high hopes for the rest of my stay here.

Rainforest trekking!

Orangutan!  Mama and baby at Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary.