Kuching is one of those cities I only planned to stay for a couple days before heading back to Thailand.  But a couple days turned into eight and between the food festival, Ramadan markets, friendly people, and nearby National Parks I have found a lot more in Kuching than I ever expected.  I stayed at one of the best hostels I've experienced this entire trip with a few people I had met in Mulu.  We were the only ones in the hostel for much of my stay so it was more like having a private apartment than staying in a hostel and the owner was beyond amazing.

View from a walk along the river in Kuching

After arriving at the hostel Wes, the owner, gave us a very thorough and informative rundown of the city and what events were going on.  Afterwards he was even kind enough to give us a ride to the Kuching food festival.  Out of hundreds of food stalls I chose to sample fried durian, some type of fish cooked in leaves, a sweet bean curd pudding, sticky rice dumplings, and mango pancakes which were my absolute favorite.  They were more like crepes and were filled with homemade cream and delicious ripe mango.  So good.  

Kuching food festival

I spent one of my nights in Kuching camping at Bako National Park.  The park was gorgeous and I enjoyed it even more than I did Gunung in Mulu.  While Mulu did have caves to explore, the park itself was so much more guided that Bako.  While in Bako we were able to trek through the jungle on minimal paths and climb and swim in waterfalls.  The beaches reminded me of the live action Flinstones movie from the 90s with the jungle, vines, and rocks lining the beach.  There were also macaques and wild boars roaming everywhere in the park as well as the occasional proboscis monkey sighting.  

Beach at Bako National Park

Climbed up a gorgeous waterfall in Bako and found a lovely pool to relax in

Unfortunately I also fell ill in Kuching for the first time in my trip.  It was nothing serious, some dehydration and stomach pain, but after two days of not being able to move and barely eat I figured it was time to see a doctor.  I didn't know what to expect going to see a doctor in Malaysia, but after having done so I was frustrated with how much more difficult it is to get healthcare in the US.  In Malaysia, and much of Southeast Asia, hospitals are more for urgent care or emergencies while clinics are for minor illnesses.  I walked into a clinic without an appointment and wrote my name and date of birth on a piece of notebook paper.  Five minutes later I was in the room having my vitals taken by a nurse while talking with a very fluent english speaking doctor about my symptoms.  Twenty minutes later I had a prescription for rehydration salts and pills for stomach pain that I filled at the dispensary next to reception.  My entire visit was about 30 minutes and 20 of that was spent speaking to a licensed doctor.  Total cost for visit and prescriptions was 25 Ringgit or about $8.30 US.  Unbelievable.

I was back on my feet shortly after my trip to the clinic and managed a quiet day of visiting markets and even caught a showing of the Dark Knight later that night.  While I try to avoid most western foods and culture while in Asia, and definitely favor more local entertainment and fares, sometimes I just need a relaxation day.  Especially while still in recovery mode.  

Weekend market

I also managed to make it to another one of Kuching's national parks to see the Rafflesia flower.  The Rafflesia only blooms for 4-6 days every 5 months before dying and can grow up to a meter in diameter.  It also gives off a very pungent odor and looks very much like one of those fleshy plastic props you would find in Knobbies (a party supply store in Omaha). 

Rafflesia

While checking out the Rafflesia one of the girls at my hostel and I met a couple doctors who worked in Kuching.  They offered us a ride back to the city, saving us an hour and a half on a bus, and even took us to dinner and it only served as a reaffirmation of how amazing the people in Malaysia are.  I've never met friendlier and more hospitable people than I have while travelling around Malaysia. It was also fascinating to hear her views on Malaysian healthcare, especially having just gone to the clinic. Later that night we went with one of the doctors to a golf themed karaoke bar for a few drinks and some unfortunate singing on my part. If you're curious as to what a golf themed karaoke bar is, it is simply a karaoke bar (which are very popular here) with pictures of professional golfers and very large portraits of the owner in his golf attire.

One of the doctors we met, a girl from my hostel, and myself singing karaoke
As a favor to the internet I did not include audio

Well, I wanted to get out of the cities and that was definitely what I got in Mulu.  A short half hour flight over the jungle from Miri brought me to Gulung Mulu National Park one of the places on UNESCO's list of World Heritage Sites.  The flight, though small, was surprisingly nice.  The plane touched down smoothly on a single strip surrounded by jungle covered hills prompting the guy behind me to start humming the Jurassic Park theme song.  I couldn't have agreed more.

Flight over the jungle

There are limited places to stay in the park, either very expensive or very full, so I figured I would show up and hope for the best.  For 15 Ringgit a night (about $5) I was provided with a homestay right along the river and that was just a three minute walk to the park entrance.  My accommodations were basic to say the least and while I hadn't expected much, even I was a bit surprised to find my bathing facilities consisted of a barrel of water and an oversized ladle.  I have never in my life regretted not shaving my legs before arriving at a place so much.

Oh boy...

But a lovely view of the river from my doorway

But it really didn't matter.  Borneo is incredibly hot and just sitting or walking about leisurely is enough to get completely drenched in sweat.  After several weeks of tropical climates I'm used to it though.  Every once in awhile I remember I'll be arriving back in the US in November and a small tear comes to my eye, but perhaps it's just sweat.  In addition to the heat, everyone smells.  Walking through caves behind a stanky middle-aged European is a good way to feel better about how long it's been since you've had a proper shower or proper laundering of clothes.

As terrible as Mulu is sounding, it was impossible to notice the threadbare comforts when surrounded by some of the world's best caves.  Though unlike Niah Caves in Miri, Mulu's caves are strictly tour guided as are many of the trails.  The first day I arrived too late to catch any of the tours so I walked to Deer Cave to watch the bat exodus.  Around 6:30 pm approximately 2 million bats left the cave in a long black flickering ribbon.  It was an amazing site to see and by that time the temperature had cooled to a comfortable degree.  Unfortunately, the drop in temperature also came with torrential downpour and I was stuck walking the 2.8 km back to my homestay in a complete downpour.

About 3 million bats reside in Deer Cave
and they exit the cave in massive groups for feeding

The next day I awoke to the sound of chickens being slaughtered and promptly put on my Ipod for a few more blissful hours of sleep.  Later I did a canopy walk which took me 55 m about the jungle floor.  The view was amazing, although you seldom see much wildlife outside of insects, lizards, and pygmy squirrels around the park.  After the canopy walk, I took tours of Deer and Lang Cave.  Deer cave has the largest cavern in the world, large enough to fit St. Peter's Basilica, though I found the formations in Lang Cave more beautiful.  That night I sampled home brewed rice wine with a few friends I had met at one of the few canteens outside the park.  Like everywhere I've been, it's impossible not to meet people.  

Deer Cave

Formations at Lang Cave

I woke early the following morning to tour Clearwater and Wind Caves which were by far my favorite part of the park.  At the end of the tour we were free to swim in Clearwater River.  Since the water flowed directly from the cave it was quite cold and felt wonderful in the Borneo heat.  On the way back to my homestay I stopped in a Penan village where local merchants were selling hand woven baskets, carved hornbills, beaded purses, and blow dart guns.  The last being an obvious gift choice for the brothers.  The path back also took me by the airport where several groundskeepers were meticulously weed wacking the entire runway. I have yet to see an actual lawn mower on this trip.   

Clearwater River:  Such a wonderful reprise from the Borneo heat

While travelling even the simplest of tasks can turn into adventures in and of themselves.  This became the case as I tried to exit Mulu.  Unlike the US, Southeast Asia has several budget airlines that make it pretty easy and affordable to book last minute and I've been taking advantage of this for much of my journey.  Not having a set plan, I like to keep my destinations open-ended in case I end up unexpectedly loving a place.  Unfortunately, Mulu was a place that needed a bit more planning.  After asking about internet and receiving only blank stares and head shakes I decided to walk the 1 km to the airport and just book directly there.  Except they didn't accept credit card.  Or exchange currency.  And I didn't have enough Ringgit.

Okay, back to the park for a credit card advance.  While I had spoken to several people who had done this earlier in their stay, the front desk informed me that they were unable to do so at the moment because they were low on cash.  This sent me on a 3 km walk in the opposite direction of the airport to Mulu Resort, the overly expensive yet basic accommodation option that did not look too kindly on my parched and sweaty body stumbling into reception inquiring about internet.  Despite a few eye rolls I managed to talk my way onto one of their computers and get my flight booked.  I even got a ride back to my homestay from one of the owners who was zipping by on a motorbike.

3 km walk on black top to get to some internet

After checking into my flight I was given simple instructions.  Listen for the plane.  When you hear it land, move to the gate.  When no more people are walking off, get on the plane.  Some things in Mulu can be surprisingly simple.

I went to Sukau Greenview Bed and Breakfast afternoon of the 13th after a few hour's drive from my hostel in the center of Sandakan, Malaysia.  I booked a three day two night package that included several river cruises, a rainforest trek, and a nighttime nature walk.  Immediately after check-in we were taken out for a sunset river cruise along the rainforest lined Kinabatangan River.  It was amazing.  The boats were small and uncrowded giving a clear view of hornbills, macaques, proboscis monkeys, alligators, and other wildlife roaming in the jungle.

River Cruising

Saw tons of these guys up close and personal

While I had hoped to see orangutans in their natural habitat, I have yet to see any outside the Sepilok Conservation Center.  However, while on my first river cruise, I did see a small herd of pygmy elephants which is an even rarer sighting.  Sughee, the guide on my boat, said the pygmy elephants were only seen four or five times a year and he hadn't seen any in about two months.  Considering he does multiple cruises every day, I was very fortunate to see them at all, let alone on my first cruise.  There were about eight of them we followed along the bank as they pulled down vines and fed on the foliage.  I was even more fortunate to see an additional two right along the riverbank the next day.

The elusive Pygmy Elephants

My stay at Sukau was so tranquil and so different from what I have seen so far in Asia, even in the rest of Borneo.  Much of the rainforest has been cut down and replaced with palm tree plantations and palm oil factories which is depressing to see.  When I first arrived in Borneo, I wondered if it was even worth the airfare I had paid to get here.  Since leaving Sandakan (can you tell I wasn't fond of the city?) I have loved every bit of Borneo.

Early morning on the river.
Borneo:  A place beautiful enough to wake me before sunrise

When I left Sukau I was dropped off at Mile 32 where there was little more than a few small market tents along a dusty road.  Another what now moment.  But I was told buses to Kota Kinabalu passed regularly and sure enough one did about 15 minutes later.  Relief.  The bus ride from Sukau to Kota Kinabalu was gorgeous and while most of my trip thus far has had it's fair share of other westerners, I was the only non-Malay on the bus.  The route wound through the mountains on jungle lined roads passing small villages and lone stilted homes.

Homes in rural Borneo

I did some more diving in Kota Kinabalu, which was even better than Koh Tao, but the best part of the city was the food.  I ate at fish markets every night where I'd go and pick a sampling of fresh seafood to be grilled to my liking and served with some extremely spicy and delicious chili sauce.  While there were eating utensils on the table, most people just used their right hand and I followed suit.  Tearing fish off the bone and shovelling rice into my mouth with my hand was definitely the way to go.

From Kota Kinabalu I went to Miri to visit the Niah Caves.  The caves are located in Niah National Park and getting there takes about a 2 km walk through the jungle and what seemed like a million haphazardly crafted wooden steps.  But it was worth it.  Unlike the caves in Gunung Mulu (where I'm heading next) you don't need a guide to walk through the caves.  While there are paths, they are sometimes little more than carved lines in the ground.  There was also no light in the underground tunnels except for my flashlight and when you're the only person in an entire cave it gets a bit spooky.

Pictures in caves just can't do them justice

I also had my first shopping breakdown in Miri when I went to a handicraft center and saw some irresistible beaded purses and clutches.  After stocking up on gifts for myself and friends, I shipped my first package home.  For $18 US my beautiful things will be on a slow boat from Borneo for about three months and will probably arrive stateside around the same time I do.

I'm heading to Gunung Mulu National Park now.  It's a short half hour flight over the jungle and boasts some of the best caves in the world.  

I've spent the past two weeks on the islands of Koh Phangan and Koh Tao in Thailand.  I traveled first to Koh Phangan to take part in the Full Moon Party, a massive gathering on the beach that lasts past sunrise the next day.  It's a strange event with buckets consisting of concentrated red bull (Pretty sure it wouldn't be FDA approved), soda, and an alcohol of your choice sold at every corner and all along the beach.  Neon clothes and body paint are essentially uniform and activities involving fire provide recreation for inoxicated partiers.  I'm proud to say that I did not partake in any flaming jumproping, limbo, or attempted fire dancing while consuming buckets.  A wise choice, as most people were walking around with bandaged appendages by the time Full Moon finished.  Also, Full Moon isn't exactly a stand alone event.  There are parties every night leading up to it that are similar affairs on a slightly smaller scale.  So by the time the Full Moon was over I was more than ready to get out of Koh Phangan.

Neons, body paint, buckets, and friends.

From Koh Phangan I headed to Koh Tao, a common post-Full Moon stop for many backpackers.  While the Island is not nearly as filthy as Koh Phangan, it has still seen the effects of a massive boom of western travelers thanks in part to the Full Moon Party.  A few of the people I was travelling with had been there only a few years ago and mentioned how much the Island has changed which is sad to hear.

Flaming jump rope at a Koh Tao bar.  Completely normal for Thailand.

I went diving for the first time in Koh Tao and after getting over the initial shock of breathing underwater, it was an amazing experience.  The coral and aquatic life was not as vibrant or varied as what I saw while snorkeling in the Perhentians, but was still very beautiful and having an airtank made it possible to get a closer.  While many people take advantage of Koh Tao's low diving prices to get certified, a three day course, I did only a single day discovery dive.  I wasn't sure how much I'd use an open water certification after I leave Thailand and also enjoyed snorkeling as much as I did diving, which is way easier and cheaper.

Koh Tao early morning before the beach got crowded.

Another first in Koh Tao was Queen's Ladyboy Cabaret.  Ladyboys are a sort of third gender in Thailand and cabaret shows are very common.  While I've seen many ladyboys walking around Southeast Asia, this is the first performance I've witnessed apart from a few fire dancers on the Perhentian Islands.

Ladyboy Whitney Houston with backup dancers.  Too soon?

While my weeks on the islands have been incredibly fun, I find myself getting a bit lazy.  Okay, maybe a lot lazy.  You realize when you decide you're too tired to move from the beach to get a massage (less than 10$ for an hour massage is difficult to resist) it's probably time to get away from the beach and get some new experiences.  After an overnight boat ride and two short flights I arrived in Sandakan, part of Malaysian Borneo.  I've already done some rainforest trekking and seen orangutans.  Today I leave for a three day river boat cruise that came highly recommended from two girls at my hostel.  After that, I'm thinking I'll head to Kota Kinabalu to see if I can book a climb up Mt. Kinabalu.  Borneo has already been a wonderful change of pace and I have high hopes for the rest of my stay here.

Rainforest trekking!

Orangutan!  Mama and baby at Sepilok Orangutan Sanctuary.

Arriving to the Perhentians with a beautiful sunrise

After a near missed overnight bus ride from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia I took a small boat to the Perhentian Islands.  Words cannot describe how beautiful the islands were.  Clear water, soft sandy beaches, and not many people.  It was a fantastic change from the bustling cities of Singapore and Kuala Lumpur but it also meant I was away from the internet for a while, hence the lack of update.  The islands only have power from about 7 pm to 7 am, though times tend to vary.  Like much of Asia, the Perhentians follow no set schedule.  Those expecting their snorkeling trip to start on time or receive their food in a timely manner would be greatly disappointed, but that’s just the pace here.  My accommodations were only 100 yards from the water and about $12 a night.  The rooms were very basic, just a couple beds and a ceiling fan, but when there is a glorious beach right outside, who cares where you sleep?

While napping on the beach this guy walked by about two feet from me
Isn't nature neat?

I went snorkeling for the first time which was amazing and the waters around the island were teeming with living things.  I saw sea turtles, sharks, rays, eels, barracuda and every color fish imaginable.  The guides were great and the trip lasted from 11 am until 5:30 pm, a full two hours longer than advertised.  As I said before, nothing is on schedule here and I love it.  I can rarely remember what day it is, let alone what time of day and it seems to be the norm.  

Stopped for lunch at a fishing village while snorkeling and
this little guy joined our table for a bit

I spent most nights on the beach meeting new people a drinking Orangutan, also called monkey juice, a local spirit similar to spiced rum I was told is only found on the island.  While no bars are open on the island during the day, two open at night and small tables and grass mats are laid out on the beach as well.  New friends, shared monkey juice, a few Chang beers, and nights swims on gorgeous island were hard to leave but the Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan, Thailand was calling.  

Sharing some Orangutan bottles on the beach with friends

I left the islands with a group of six other people.  While I started travelling alone, I’ve hardly had any time to myself.  It’s impossible to not meet people when you’re travelling and when you’re only with someone for a set amount of time before parting ways, there’s not really time for social awkwardness,.  Also, staying in hostels with a dozen beds in one room and a shared toilet makes things pretty personal very quickly.

So hard to leave this place

The trip from the Perhentian Islands to Koh Phangan involved quite the array of transport including multiple boats, buses, and trains, a walk across the border, and even a quick trip on the back of a motor bike.  We made it to Koh Phangan yesterday morning and after getting settled in a bungalow I’m sharing with a girl from San Diego, she and I decided to rent scooters to explore the island a bit.  After a few practice laps we made the journey to Haad Rin and arranged accommodations closer to where the Full Moon Party will be.  

The view from my balcony before departing the Perhentians

So far, Thailand has been fun, albeit a bit crazy.  Last night there was a pool party and tonight a jungle party, all events leading up to the Full Moon.

I arrived in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia around 5:30 pm via train from Johor Bahru, the first Malay city north of Singapore.  Upon arriving at the station I made my way to the bathrooms where I met my first squat toilet, and after a brief moment of, "I'm supposed to do what?" I managed without peeing on my feet.  Small personal victory.  The walk from the station to my hostel was quick and after situating my things in my bunk and locking up my backpack, I hit the streets to find some dinner and wandered into Chinatown.  After politely declining several offers to purchase DVDs, sunglasses, and counterfeit Louis Vuitton I made it to the street vendors.  Yum.

Now, when I was still in the preparation phases of this trip I made a visit to the travel clinic to get vaccinated and prescribed what I would need to stay healthy.  I was also advised to avoid street food and to stick as much as I could to commercial and sealed foods.  To which I say, bad form, why eat what I can eat in America?  While I nodded in agreement with my physician, I had complete intentions to disregard that advice, and that disregard has thus far led me to deliciousness; tonight's prawn dumplings with noodles and a generous quantity of chili paste being no exception.

As the streets of Kuala Lumpur darkened I made my way back to my hostel to grab a drink at the roof top bar.   I joined a group of guys and one girl who were, like me, all traveling alone.  The group included individuals from Sicily, China, Germany, England, Switzerland, Florida, and one (sorry to feed into stereotypes) extremely intoxicated Irish man who continuously referred to Guiness as "Mother's milk."

New friends to see sites with tomorrow and all it took was a "Mind if I join you?"  Love meeting people in hostels.

Sorry, no pictures this time, I'll double down next post.

I spent the past two days checking out the Singapore Zoo, Night Safari, and Jurong Bird Park.  Also, eating.  Lots of eating, lots of delicious things.  I started my food and fauna fest with a hearty breakfast of prata roti, chicken masala, and milk with rose syrup at one of Irene’s (the mother of the family I’m staying with) favorite food places.  Prata roti is a crispy, flaky, pancake-like food one dips in a curry sauce and it proved to be fantastic fuel for the walking that followed.

Much like the rest of Singapore, the zoo is covered in thick greenery and no animals, apart from a few reptiles and insects, are kept in actual cages.  There are also no indoor exhibits, which sounds pretty neat until you’re actually there in the Singapore heat and humidity.  But sweating is a constant here and damp clothes are the the norm for any outdoor activities.  The whole zoo reminded me of a ginormous real-life version of the Lied Jungle at the Henry Doorly Zoo, but with few active animals given the heat.  Fortunately, Singapore’s realized this and the later opening, cooler Night Safari is just next door.

Pretty much the entire zoo looks like this

I took a break between the Zoo and the Night Safari with a bowl of mee siam, noodles in a chili-lime broth, and a kinder bueno.  It was the first kinder bueno I’ve bought since being in Europe two years ago and it was glorious.  I can’t believe these delicious candy bars are not available more widely in the US, or at least the midwest.

The Night Safari had a lot more visible animals than the zoo, though I suspect the staff goes to great lengths in conditioning the animals to feed and hang around areas close to the tram path.  Between the tram (I’ve been walking ridiculous amounts since I’ve been here) and the highly visible animals, the Night Safari hands down won the best zoo component contest. Though the Bird Park I went to on the following day came in a close second.

No pictures from Night Safari because they didn't allow flash, so extra birds.

This is an overachieving pheasant.  Its plumage puts US pheasants to shame

Day two of food and fauna started with a trip to the wet market with Irene.  In Singapore, they have what are called dry and wet markets, dry being the clean supermarkets and wet being the crowded open air vendors frequented more by the locals.  In addition to the regular groceries, Irene also bought me some bao (steamed filled buns) to take to the Bird Park for lunch, and durian for later.  Durian is known for being a very pungent fruit that is actually banned in some public places because of the stench.  The smell didn’t bother me, although Irene mentioned that durians from Thailand tend to smell worse, and I actually found it to be quite tasty.  

Me about to nom on some durian

Tomorrow I depart for Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.  While I’m sad to leave the wonderful family I’ve been staying with I’m also excited to discover new places.