I went to Sukau Greenview Bed and Breakfast afternoon of the 13th after a few hour's drive from my hostel in the center of Sandakan, Malaysia.  I booked a three day two night package that included several river cruises, a rainforest trek, and a nighttime nature walk.  Immediately after check-in we were taken out for a sunset river cruise along the rainforest lined Kinabatangan River.  It was amazing.  The boats were small and uncrowded giving a clear view of hornbills, macaques, proboscis monkeys, alligators, and other wildlife roaming in the jungle.

River Cruising

Saw tons of these guys up close and personal

While I had hoped to see orangutans in their natural habitat, I have yet to see any outside the Sepilok Conservation Center.  However, while on my first river cruise, I did see a small herd of pygmy elephants which is an even rarer sighting.  Sughee, the guide on my boat, said the pygmy elephants were only seen four or five times a year and he hadn't seen any in about two months.  Considering he does multiple cruises every day, I was very fortunate to see them at all, let alone on my first cruise.  There were about eight of them we followed along the bank as they pulled down vines and fed on the foliage.  I was even more fortunate to see an additional two right along the riverbank the next day.

The elusive Pygmy Elephants

My stay at Sukau was so tranquil and so different from what I have seen so far in Asia, even in the rest of Borneo.  Much of the rainforest has been cut down and replaced with palm tree plantations and palm oil factories which is depressing to see.  When I first arrived in Borneo, I wondered if it was even worth the airfare I had paid to get here.  Since leaving Sandakan (can you tell I wasn't fond of the city?) I have loved every bit of Borneo.

Early morning on the river.
Borneo:  A place beautiful enough to wake me before sunrise

When I left Sukau I was dropped off at Mile 32 where there was little more than a few small market tents along a dusty road.  Another what now moment.  But I was told buses to Kota Kinabalu passed regularly and sure enough one did about 15 minutes later.  Relief.  The bus ride from Sukau to Kota Kinabalu was gorgeous and while most of my trip thus far has had it's fair share of other westerners, I was the only non-Malay on the bus.  The route wound through the mountains on jungle lined roads passing small villages and lone stilted homes.

Homes in rural Borneo

I did some more diving in Kota Kinabalu, which was even better than Koh Tao, but the best part of the city was the food.  I ate at fish markets every night where I'd go and pick a sampling of fresh seafood to be grilled to my liking and served with some extremely spicy and delicious chili sauce.  While there were eating utensils on the table, most people just used their right hand and I followed suit.  Tearing fish off the bone and shovelling rice into my mouth with my hand was definitely the way to go.

From Kota Kinabalu I went to Miri to visit the Niah Caves.  The caves are located in Niah National Park and getting there takes about a 2 km walk through the jungle and what seemed like a million haphazardly crafted wooden steps.  But it was worth it.  Unlike the caves in Gunung Mulu (where I'm heading next) you don't need a guide to walk through the caves.  While there are paths, they are sometimes little more than carved lines in the ground.  There was also no light in the underground tunnels except for my flashlight and when you're the only person in an entire cave it gets a bit spooky.

Pictures in caves just can't do them justice

I also had my first shopping breakdown in Miri when I went to a handicraft center and saw some irresistible beaded purses and clutches.  After stocking up on gifts for myself and friends, I shipped my first package home.  For $18 US my beautiful things will be on a slow boat from Borneo for about three months and will probably arrive stateside around the same time I do.

I'm heading to Gunung Mulu National Park now.  It's a short half hour flight over the jungle and boasts some of the best caves in the world.